TIME WITHOUT TRENDS
La Botanica Magazine asked a rising star hair stylist ANASTASIA MILIAEVA about her vision of modern fashion and her journey to the top.
Beauty story for TUSH Magazine Photographer: Maximilian Höll Fashion Stylist: Lotte Elisa. Hair Stylist: Nastya Miliaeva. Makeup: Catlin Wooters Model: Dalianah Arekion. Studio: Veronica Studio.
L.B.: Why has hairstyling become the most beloved?
A.M.: I have started a career in hairdressing because I believed that changing one’s appearance is the fastest and easiest way to make a person happy. I was always fascinated by the process of preparing for a fashion show, more than for the show itself. I wondered what happened backstage, that world has always seemed only for the chosen ones. However, it opened its doors for me.
L.B.: Who inspired you among the hairstylists?
A.M.: I was lucky enough to work with the best of the best in the industry. I already worked as the leading educator of Oribe in Russia when I started to work with Peter Gray for the show "Noize." That gave me the understanding that fashion is superficial, while it's true message is hidden behind an idea, an inspiration, a concept. I came to New York to work with Joey George; he inspired me to move. In this context, I cannot omit Gary Gill, who gave me an understanding of how to build a perfect balance within the team with professionalism, respect, and family atmosphere. And of course, Mustafa Yanaz, sculptor of hair, my friend, has instilled confidence in me.
Photographer: Maximilian Höll. Fashion Stylist: Julianna Alabado. Makeup Artist: Stefanie Lammsiu. Hair Stylist: Nastya Miliaeva. Model: Josephine
L.B.: With whom did you create the most significant work?
A.M.: First of all, I work on fashion weeks a lot. I take pride in having worked at fashion shows like Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Lacoste, Givenchy, Gucci, Nina Ricci, Lanvin, and Moschino.
L.B.: What is the difference between experiences of working on a fashion show and editorial photoshoot?
A.M.: Mainly by my ability to be in charge of the creative process. No fashion shows there are always so many people, and everyone is concentrated on one look. The photoshoot, though, allows you to step away from the original idea, create your unique interpretations of it. For instance, in my latest shoot for Vogue Arabia, our very famous model, Alexandra Agoston, felt very uncomfortable with the hairstyle that followed the original references. Eventually, I was able to make a decision to change the whole hair concept. I have added a lot of volumes, what I think has saved the photoshoot. Even within a strong framework, it is essential to have the ability to be flexible and to have the power to create something that may seem risky when you know it is right.
In the case of creative photoshoots, the collaboration of the team elevates it to a new level. For my last project with L’Officiel Russia, I had the freedom to create a new hairstyle for every new image. That is complete creative liberty!
Beauty story for Lucy’s Magazine. Photographer: Marion Clémence Grand. Stylist: Jenn Park Krulik. Hair: Nastya Miliaeva. Makeup: Caitlin Wooters. Model: Avril Marion with RED Model Management.
Photographer: Maximilian Höll. Fashion Stylist: Julianna Alabado. Makeup Artist: Stefanie Lammsiu. Hair Stylist: Nastya Miliaeva. Model: Josephine
L.B.: Which trends could you define in fashion shows and fashion editorial hairstyling?
A.M.: For several years, I have been thinking about hair trends, and the more I think about it, the more I give masterclasses about it, the more I become convinced that they are no longer there. I consider it to be more relevant to look at hair styling: how the overall image looks and what kind of sensation it creates. For example, this season, I noted that there are details that destroy the perfection of the design. Like at Nina Ricci show. A smooth, clean-cut image of hair was interrupted by a broken strand in the back. A combination of a perfect hair texture with a small uncombed part, as if, unintentionally forgotten, alludes to the realism of the esthetic. An ideal example is Balenciaga, where each model has a particular hairstyle, and it perfectly supports and completes the image. I believe trends will soon die, and hairstyling will not be driven by fashion but by the goal to find the best combination, most innovative approach to complement the look. When I was working with Moncler, the volume of clothes restricted the volume of hairstyle. On the other hand, big hair would become most complementary for dresses made from flowing fabrics.
Beauty story for Lucy’s Magazine. Photographer: Marion Clémence Grand. Stylist: Jenn Park Krulik. Hair: Nastya Miliaeva. Makeup: Caitlin Wooters. Model: Avril Marion with RED Model Management.
L.B.: It seems to be visible in some photoshoots you created?
A.M.: Yes, exactly. We have been working for four years with Kat Irlin @kat_in_nyc. With the amount of freedom that she gives, I realize that trends do not matter, copying somebody is simply impossible. We work not just with models but with top models such as Helena Christensen or Taylor LaShae. For my creative expression, it does not matter how famous they are, I always find it possible to find a way to open up their personality in a new way, tell a story through textures, silhouettes, and style. Everything that we shot for Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Elle, WHITEWALL, Bloomingdales, and much more was not only beautiful in the result but also excellent in its process.
Photographer: Rebecca Miller. Hair Stylist: Nastya Miliaeva. Makeup: Stefanie Lammsiu.. Photographer Assistant: Nina Clinch. Model: Mackenzie Goodenough. Stylist: Emma Pritchard.
L.B.: What would be the main principle of working with celebrities?
A.M.: In work with celebrities, there are specifics that differ from work with models. It is not enough to make it look current but essential to support the image of their character, which is different for every actress and has its history. Recently, I was able to confirm that through my experience of working with an actress Ravshana Kurkova with whom we were shooting a special project in New York.
L.B.: Botanica and hair. Is there a connection between the two in the present?
A.M.: Much more than you would think! In the beginning, we were taught: hair is the keratinized part of the skin, without blood supply and nerve endings. Dead matter. This idea always shocked me. How can this part be dead? I adhere to the philosophy that everything on earth is connected. What could be more beautiful, harmonious, and natural than flying hair in the wind? What could be more natural than the desire to decorate yourself? Hair is one of the strongest accessories given to us by nature! Yes, we can change the color, length, texture of the hair, but why do we need to do it?
L.B.: Which qualities are essential for working in the modern world of fashion to make your way to the top?
A.M.: On one side, education, knowledge of the history of photography and films, which help you create a sense of quality. On the one hand, It is essential to have a good understanding of the magazines that you work for. For example, the style of L’Officiel would be the opposite of the esthetical direction of Nicotine, Schon, and Tush Magazine.
It is essential to have a unique sense of beauty. You may follow what is happening in fashion weeks, what photos and ideas are circulating in print and digital media, you may copy and adapt to the environment of current fashion, but that mostly pushes you away from who you are. To be a leader, though, you should not be afraid of paradoxes and risks. And most importantly, you have to find your style and achieve perfection in it.
NASTYA MILIAEVA based in New York.